Phantom Red: When a Horror Film set the Fashion

 

"It was a man dressed all in scarlet, with a huge hat and feathers on the top of a wonderful death's-head.  From his shoulders hung an immense red-velvet cloak, which trailed along the floor like a king's train; and on this cloak was embroidered, in gold letters, which everyone read and repeated aloud:
'Touch me not!  I am Red Death stalking abroad!'"
-quoted from The Phantom of the Opera, by Gaston Leroux

  On September 6, 1925, the silent film horror masterpiece The Phantom of the Opera, starring Lon Chaney and Mary Philbin, premiered in theaters.  The film, besides being known as the visual adaptation of Gaston Leroux's 1910 novel of the same name, is one of the first films to include color sequences.  The "color" at the time was called Process 2 Technicolor, or Technicolor II, which was a base of two colors, red and green.  This process was used for the scenes of the party-goers at the masquerade ball, which is famously remembered by the dramatic entrance of the Phantom in a costume representing the Red Death, from Edgar Allan Poe's short story The Masque of the Red Death.  This scene, dazzling audiences with the bright red grandeur of his costume, caused a stir in the fashion scene.  

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  This bright, bold color was coined "phantom red", and Paris declared it the color of the fall/winter 1925-1926 season.  Store windows were essentially painted red as retailers took no time to advertise any and all products that could be produced in this color, from clothing, shoes, cosmetics, and even food.

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  As not only a fan of the film and the novel, but a collector of vintage cosmetics, I've been fascinated by this unique fashion history of a rare and seemingly unknown trend from the 1920's.  When browsing through Photoplay, Screenland, and other popular magazines of the time, there are somewhat subtle, yet copious advertisements featuring Mary Philbin that introduce Phantom Red Cosmetics, a cosmetic line from Carlyle Laboratories, Inc.  The company capitalized on the phantom red fame, selling lipsticks and rouge inspired by the fashionable color, as well as brow and eyelash products. 

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  These advertisements lasted until about 1930, when the Phantom Red line became just another cosmetic brand.  The advertisements, which always emphasized the "phantom-like" quality of the makeup(although wearing makeup was not as stigmatized as it was in years prior, it still liked to advertise itself as being subtle and natural), started to focus only on that, and no longer mentioned the film as its inspiration.  These advertisements also give a first look as to what the packaging actually looks like, since the advertisements from the 1920's don't really show them.

Note that even though the image of the Phantom is still on the compact, there isn't one mention of the film.
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I was never able to find the source of this image, which is a shame because it's the only color advertisement I've seen for Phantom Red.  Any information is greatly appreciated!

  In my research I've found almost no information after the early 1930's about this cosmetic line, and the name "phantom red" seemed to practically disappear as a color choice.  Its swift disappearance is also represented in its current rarity, as I've never once seen a Phantom Red lipstick outside of the later advertisements.  No matter how many years and how many hours I've spent scouring the internet to find a physical antique, the only Phantom Red product I've seen is a cardboard display for the brow product alone(and boy was it pricey!).

  However, after mostly giving up on ever adding a Phantom Red product to my cosmetic collection, my luck changed and I found an eBay seller offering a rouge compact sporting those coveted words "PHANTOM RED" on the lid.  My heart skipped a beat when I saw this, and although the compact was empty(and looks to have been heart-breakingly scrubbed clean), I couldn't resist adding this rare piece of 1920's fashion history to my collection, and promptly purchased it for far more than I would ever spend on an empty compact.

Although I am over the moon to have been able to add this to my collection, I will continue to look for my holy grail Phantom Red item, the lipstick.  How does the lipstick color compare to the Phantom's costume?  The tube from the 1930's is black, but what about the one from the 1920's?  Is it metal like the compact I own?  Since my compact doesn't look like the ones in the 1930's ads, when was mine produced?  What does the rouge powder look like, is it a true red, or just a bright pink, like most other rouge colors I've seen from the era?  With every answered question I have so many unanswered ones, but I'm holding out hope that one day I will know all there is to know about the rare, elusive, and bold color known as Phantom Red!

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Further Research:

Wikipedia: The Phantom of the Opera(film)
Wikipedia: The Phantom of the Opera(novel)
Wikipedia: Process 2 Technicolor
Phantom Colours: Alice Blue and Phantom Red; Changing Meanings of Two Fashionable Colours (1905-1930) - article about the impact of these colors

The Wondrous World of Hair Waving Devices - A Collection

  My favorite vintage hairstyle has to be the beautifully sculpted waves of the 1920's-early 1930's.  Finger waves, water waves, Marcel waves - no matter if the hair was short or long, it was always in some sort of wave.  By the mid-1930's, waving one's hair was going out of style in favor of fluffier, less sculpted looks, and is a bit of a lost art.  In my vintage journey I've tried many times to achieve that iconic waved hair look, and what helped the most was using not only the same techniques, but as close to the original products as possible.  There are similar modern waving products out there, but as an avid antique collector I've been lucky in finding a variety of unique waving devices that are just what I need to learn how to create more authentic hairstyles.

Would you believe most of this I bought as one 'lot'?  My small collection grew to a large one in a single purchase!

The oldest pieces in this collection are from the 1920's.

Here is an image from an eBay sale showing the box.

Cut off scanned page from Sears, Roebuck & Co. catalog from Spring 1922.
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Page from Sears, Roebuck & Co. catalog from Fall 1923.
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Here are two sets of celluloid waving combs - no markings, but my research shows they are: a full set of Sears, Roebuck & Co. Water Waving Combs, circa 1922; and a partial set of Sears, Roebuck & Co. Water Wavers, circa 1923. 

 

 

Here is a NOS(New Old Stock) set of Sanitary Kid Leather Curlers.  I don't yet have the courage to open this pristine package, so I doubt I'll ever try them(link on how to make reproduction kid curlers below).

The rest of this collection hails from the entirety of the 1930's.

Here is a full set and partial set of wave setters.  I found a few of these sets on cards for sale online, so I know what they are, but since the setters aren't marked I haven't a clue about the brand or exact year.  I assume 1930's by the imagery, but they could be later 1920's as well.

 

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Here is a full set and possibly two partial sets of Goody Water Wavers, patented on September 30, 1930.  These wavers say 'patent pending', but Goody has so many patents that it wasn't too hard to find this particular invention.

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Here is a large amount(two sets and one extra) of Mervin Wave Clips, patented on November 29, 1932.  This type of clip can still be bought today, but the advantage of the older ones is their size - they're smaller, which is good for waving around the head.

 

Here is a full set with card of Vassar Wavers, presumably early 1930's based on the artwork.  It's hard to tell if these were ever used, but the foam of the curlers has started to degrade and they are unusable now.  The card, however, is beautifully illustrated and would be worth purchasing on its own. 

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Here is a full set of Goody Wave Clips, patented on May 12, 1936.  

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Here is the main piece from a set called Hold-Bob, this being the Hold-Bob Hair Curler, patented on November 30, 1937.  This product is the first sign of the death of the structured wave - it is used to make pin curls, and originally would have come with a set of bobby pins.  

 

And last but not least, is a 1920's-1930's curling iron with painted wooden handles, made in U.S.A.  The metal barrel is held over a flame to heat up and then used to curl the hair, similarly to using a modern electric curling iron.  This was the first hair device I ever collected, though I doubt I'll ever use it for safety reasons(meaning the safety of my hair!).

Further Research:
A great 1920's-1930's(and a bit earlier) resource: TheLongHairedFlapper on Youtube - here are her videos on Kid Curlers and 30's Curlers(like the Vassar Wavers)

Vintage Project Spotlight: Harper's Bazar 1925 Inspired Blouse

This vintage project spotlight is on my Harper's Bazar 1925 inspired blouse.

  The inspiration for this blouse is from a fashion plate in Harper's Bazar magazine from January 1925.  The original design is from Nicole Groult, a French fashion designer who is sister to the famous designer Paul Poiret.  What I liked about this design was its fairly simple construction - kimono sleeves, loose and straight shape, with the only details being a V-necked tie collar and hip band.  This is my favorite type of blouse from this era - the drape-y nature and shape are comfortable, and it's one of the more flattering of the 1920s fashions.

  I used the bodice pattern from Simplicity 8506 to draft a very simple and boxy kimono shape.  For the tie collar, I used the long tie collar pattern piece from my 1923 dress and shortened it.  The hip band is just the bottom of the blouse pattern measurement, doubled, then doubled again, and about 5 inches wide(I wasn't too worried about exact measurement of the width, as long at it would turn out at least 2 inches wide).

The pattern(not to scale).  Front and back are the same except for the neckline, the back shown as a dotted line.  There are no closures, the v-neck is large enough to pull over the head.

  The original design is a multi-colored large floral print on black in rayon crepe.  I liked the look of it in black and white in the plate, so I went for that color scheme and happened upon a print that was somewhat close(large floral, but not as spread apart) and same type of fabric.  I also bought solid black rayon crepe for the tie collar and hip band, omitting the leaf pattern on the band.

The fabric.

  I finished all the seams by hand overcasting, and finished the inside collar and hip band by hand as well.  I'm not really a fan of bows, so I made the tie just long enough to tie in a knot, and made a separate bow on a pin so I would have the most versatility.

And here's the finished blouse!

  I'm very pleased with the outcome of this blouse, since the entire process was basically an experiment.  It isn't exactly like the fashion plate, but I think I captured the feeling and drape - and it's so comfortable!  Worn with a black twill skirt(made by me), the bow pinned on, Mae shoes by American Duchess in black, and Besame lipstick in 1925 Forever Red.

...And a bonus:

  Another reason I like this type of blouse is that it can also be styled 1930s.  The same blouse and skirt, but tucked in and worn with 1930s gloves, Huxley shoes by B.A.I.T Footwear in black/white, a 1930s bar pin instead of the bow, white hat from Target, and Besame lipstick in 1933 Merlot.

Unraveling Corde's History and My Collection

  Even though I tend to lean towards fashions of the 1920's and 1930's, I have a growing love affair with WWII era Corde purses.  They're usually black, which has always been my preferred color, the cord detailing is done in beautiful Art Deco patterns, and, what is probably their best feature, they're incredibly well made and sturdy.  I've dubbed one of my bags my 'antiquing purse' which I use on a regular basis, and have no fear of it being too fragile.  Information on these bags is few and far between, though I believe I've started to unravel the mystery of their origins.

Advertisement from The Newton Graphic, May 1945.

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  Corde, pronounced "corday", is a bag made of a buckrum base, lined in silk or other fabric, and the cord embroidery is either rayon or silk.  This embroidery is made on a Bonnaz-Cornely machine in a 'plaque', or flat shape before being trimmed and attached to the bag.  The original Bonnaz embroidery machine was invented by Antione Bonnaz in 1865.  It was used to imitate tambour embroidery, a type of chain stitch done by hand, but could be mass produced with this machine.  Ercole Cornely further developed this machine and it became the product used to make the cord embroidery seen on these purses.

  Corde purses, though technically in existence since the late 1920s*, became well-known in the 1930's, becoming increasingly popular by 1942, and continued into the 1950's.  The bags of this style are all called Corde and several brands produced them over the years, though the story begins with Annette.  Annette Handbag Company started in 1931.  From 1931 to 1938 Annette made cord embroidery bags as well as others, though in 1938 they exclusively produced Corde bags.  The company originally called their bags Corday, but changed to Corde in 1936 to avoid confusion with a perfume at the time also called Corday.  In 1939 they patented their products as Genuine "CORDE", and made it known that they were the originators of Corde handbags, and that anything marked Genuine "CORDE" is exclusively theirs(though other companies were also making cord embroidery bags as long as Annette was).  After losing a court case in 1941 over their ownership of the term, it seems other companies used it as a mark of quality to advertise their versions of this style of bag, and from then on Genuine Corde bags could be from a number of brands and weren't only associated with Annette(as is seen on numerous advertisements).

Annette's patent for the word "Corde", 1936.

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A letter to sellers of Annette Corde handbags addressing authenticity.

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Advertisement from Luggage & Leather Goods, August 1939.

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Advertisement from Stearns department store, 1940.

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Advertisement from 1950.

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  These purses came in all shapes and sizes, as well as colors(primarily black, brown, and navy, but also in multi-color).  Some had zippers, others with brass turn-lock closures, those with zippers commonly had Lucite pulls, and some also had Lucite handles(I've also seen some with beading called CordeBead by Lumered, said to be 1950's/1960's).  Bags with their original Lucite pulls or intact handles and are marked with Genuine Corde have a greater value than those without them.  Because of these factors, Corde purses range in value from $5 to upwards of $100.

Advertisement from The Newton Graphic, December 1946.

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Advertisement from The Californian, August 1949.

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  Corde purses are a very common find in antique stores, most likely because they are so well made that they've survived better than other purses of that era.  After collecting five, I decided against getting anymore unless I found something really unique, though it is tempting to buy more since I see them so often.

The first two purses are clutch bags.  The black one with its intact Lucite pull was the first Corde piece I found after learning about these purses, and I was so excited not only to find one, but to find one that was complete!  The other is a chocolate brown color, but missing its Lucite pull and has slight fading.

This is the purse I called my 'antiquing purse'.  I found it at an estate sale for a low price, the only damage being the lining of the handle deteriorating and some wear on the label, which says 'An Annette Product'.  I had some vintage black seam binding in my inherited sewing box, so I used that to make a new lining that I just hand-stitched over the original.  This way, if I ever decided to sell it, the Corde purists out there could remove my lining and the bag would be in its original state.

(I did some photo editing to attempt to bring out the label, which is very worn)

This next purse is probably one of my best ever finds.  In a very shabby chic antique store with very little actual antiques in it(you know the ones), I found this absolute gem.  It is a black evening bag(I presume by the style), with brass turn-lock closure, in almost mint condition aside from heavy wear on the stamped label, which reads 'Arvey' Genuine Corde.  It is my only marked Genuine Corde purse, and I bought it for seven dollars!  I could barely contain my excitement when I found it, and it remains a constant reminder that buying in a physical store will bear much greater(and cheaper!) finds.

When I found this last purse, I already told myself I didn't need to buy anymore Cordes since my last purchase couldn't be beat, right?  Then I found this - black bag with its Lucite pull and both Lucite handles, no serious damage to any of the plastic, and in an amber color.  I couldn't pass on such a beautiful bag, so I caved and bought it, though I can't say I regret it!  (Unfortunately, there was a label that was cut out, but based on the size and where it's sewn in, there's a chance this is also an Annette bag, though I'll never know for sure.)

  I had a lot of fun venturing down the road of Corde handbags and their history, and I have a better understanding and appreciation for this beloved vintage purse.  Again, I don't plan on adding to my collection of Cordes, as much as I love them.  However, I may eat my words when I come across that diamond in the rough during a future antiquing trip.



Further Research:
New York Court of Appeals, 1941 - This is a case between Annette Handbag Co. and Mercury Handbags Co. over the use of the term CORDE and Genuine CORDE.  In it is more information than I've ever come across in regards to this type of purse, and I highly recommend a read through for those fascinated by Corde and its history.  *This case mentions that Corde bags have been around since 1926, though I've unfortunately found no examples of what they might have looked like.
Bag Lady University - This links to a list of brands that produced Corde bags, with some advertisements
MAAS(Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences): Cornely Emboidery Machine - An antique example of the machine that eventually produced cord embroidery(there are also videos on YouTube of later versions of the machine in action)